Grasp

2011-11-20T03:58:00.000-08:00

Still Alive - And movin' on up...

...to higher elevations. Out of Seoul, and into the mountains and hills of Korea's Gangwon province. Much more to come!

2009-10-29T02:59:00.000-07:00

The more you watch the less you know

Perhaps an odd topic for my first post in almost exactly a full calendar year, but I watched a fairly frightening documentary today. Comparing the Ministry of Truth in the classic 1984 with new FCC regulations under Bush's white house, the doc explores the relationship between media control and the trouncing of democracy. With media ownership falling into fewer and fewer hands, whose view will we come to embrace as truth?

"Orwell rolls in his grave" http://www.freedocumentaries.org/theatre.php?filmid=87&id=801&wh=1000x720 -lots of other free docs to be found on this site worth their 1-2 hours of time and more.

In other news, life in Korea has continued to be wonderful. Still climbing, though more sporadically than i'd like. The bouldering scene in this country however, is about to explode. Its what'll happen when climber types wishing they had more time+$$$ back in N America discover the financial freedom and house-sized stones accessible in korea. awesome.

2009-01-05T02:59:00.000-08:00

Plastic bag philosophy under flickering florescent strip lighting

- groovy, but if you suffer from epilepsy, ask a doctor first.

http://www.yhchang.com/LOTUS_BLOSSOM.html

in-transit: Euljiro sam ga

2008-10-27T03:58:00.000-07:00

Insubong enjoys its status as Korea's most classic peak to scale. A great view of western Seoul was expected from the top, but a shock and awe blitzkrieg of low heavy clouds had gathered from nowhere and consumed the peak by the 5th pitch.

Our route followed fractures along the sparse tree line on the right, tucked under the over-hanging 'nose' and emerged on top in a soup of fog and cool autumn rain.

"Beauty is not less for falling in the breeze"

Does grace colour us all the same? ... Copper and bronze coins high up in the trees fall to pay our weight, our way, through winter.

-From Paulette Dube's 'First Mountain'

2008-10-27T03:42:00.000-07:00

Gyeonghuigung

The west Palace

Quite empty on a Wednesday evening

5 blocks away

all along.

I mean to wander more often.

After the better part of an hour, mid-evening hunger and a flashing low battery light had me heading towards the front exit where I'd come in, and where I caught the night-duty putting the last crossbar across the heavy wooden doors. 5 minutes later and I'd have been spending the whole night where the kings had slept.

2008-10-23T04:43:00.000-07:00

In wild anticipation of finishing the last two episodes of the third and tragically final season of Arrested Development, I tore open the pack of popcorn seeds that'd been sitting in my cupboard for the past 3 months, and went to town on the gas stove. I really hadn't planned on putting back enough popcorn to overfill a stove pot and require the additional space of a medium mixing bowl as well as a bonus-size cereal dish, but I was inspired. Arrested Development has been the best use of roughly 20 hours at home after work that would normally have been used for something even less productive.

One of the greatest scenes out of the whole series. Astroman takes on the Mole, destroying a desert subdivision mock-up, and wildly insulting a score of Japanese would-be investors.

The popcorn, was brilliant. Perfect. All 2 gallons of it. When does LOST start up again?

2008-10-06T19:17:00.000-07:00

For the past 8 months I have been unable to access this blog at work, blocked by some malicious code intentionally designed to keep me on track with the business of teaching English. And now, the wall has fallen. Could this hearld a flurry of insightful postings pertaining to my life, work, and observations in South Korea? It could. Or not.

There's the bell.

2008-09-29T23:45:00.000-07:00

Chusok Holiday

The carefree, empty beach days often associated with summers by the lake back home, do exist in Korea. But you've got to wait until September to find them. While 98% of Koreans hit the highways heading to family gatherings, handfuls of familiar foreigners jumped on a boat at Incheon and had the island all to themselves. Perfect sand, warm water, blue skies.

Happy Chusok.

Deokjeokdo, and the Yellow Sea

2008-09-25T03:25:00.000-07:00

The hectic days of large-scale protests have passed in Seoul, and as it felt all day today - so has summer. And soon the calendar weeks will take the leaves with them.
Here are some pictures from over the past... 4 months or so. Yes, its been a while.

My penance for not trying bondeggi last year was.... to try them this year. I can't imagine anything tasting so much like a handful of damp decaying leaves. To be honest, I could come up with a long list of things far worse to taste. Though now my curiosity has been filled, it might be quite a while before I belly up to the silk-worm chrysalis stand once more.

Buddhas fade to granite at Bukhansan

Day drops over eastern Seoul.

Kimchi jjim and rice wine on a monsoon afternoon, Jeju Island.

2008-06-09T05:40:00.000-07:00

The Exciting World of Korean Protests

Things are getting a bit crazy of here in Korea, Republic of. I mean, more than that what seems usual from this weigook's perspective.

Living and commuting in downtown Seoul, its impossible to escape the fervour and its fallout surrounding the US beef import issue. The average Seoulite is horrified of american beef once again hitting the korean market/BBQ grill after an all out ban due to the mad cow scare. Tens of thousands of koreans have taken to the streets of Seoul over the past 3 weeks in increasingly tense gatherings. Video footage of this past weekend's insanity is simply shameful. Candlelight vigils less than a month ago are now taking the tune of senseless rioting.

"I am afraid of American beef," one 13-year-old protester told a US newspaper reporter. "I could study hard in school. I could get a good job and then I could eat beef and just die."

There's some homegrown insight to counter the hysteria, though not much.

"We are creating the fear of mad cow disease in our own minds. Candlelights should be used to brighten the darkness, not burn down our own homes."

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7436914.stm - BBC Asia Pacific News - an over-head pan of the issues threatening my peaceful 30-minute walk to school.

http://www.kyotojournal.org/kjselections/koreanprotest.html - I am impressed with Kyoto Journal's intelligent asia-centric liberal-artsy literature. Korean protests are nothing new, nothing short of a two year protest finally brought down a 40 year old dictatorship government in 1987.

http://www.who-sucks.com/people/the-exciting-world-of-south-korean-protests - a photographic catalogue of a few different protest strategies seen over the past decade or so - though coming from an entertaining yet distastefully singular perspective. Certainly not the most flattering outlook.

From the BBC website, this intersection is where I turn up the hill and head to school.

This is Gwanghwamun, a 6 minute stroll from the Human Space Parkview Tower I call home. This gate was the former site of the Japanese colonial government headquarters. Ironic on a scale to which I can barely grasp.

Some say bliss is still to be found in the small green bottles. The production of these, actually, might as well be the thing worth protesting. I've never been so ill from beef as I have felt after a soju night.

2008-05-28T04:57:00.000-07:00

Geojedo - May 10-12

Geoje Island lies off the south coast of Korea, a tumultuous hour-long ferry ride or a cruisy 3-and-a-half hour taxi ride from Busan - both of which we experienced over the second long weekend in May. We left Seoul on Friday evening aboard the high-speed KTX train, with obligatory beers for the road - er, rails - in hand (much to the chagrin of neighboring passengers). Saturday morning in typical Geoff-Shannon-Nicole-Les road trip fashion we were met with drizzle, stepping out of our discount Busan motel.

By midafternoon we had reached Gojura beach on Geoje. Once checked in to the bada green pension, the four of us did what any other travellers would do on arrival to a pseudo semi-tropical island. We passed the #%*! out inside our room.

The island offered sand beaches, bereft of beachcombing crowds as May is still well ahead of the oft-observed official beach season in Korea. A conspicuous cornice of rock jutting out from an overlooking mountain-side called Nicole and I to its flanks on Sunday afternoon, after an epic Saturday night's session of noraebang.

Ae-bawi, the rock, offered the most aesthetic, finger-tip pleasing climb I've experienced yet on the peninsula, or anywhere near it. A three pitch climb to the top all along offered the most amazing views of the coves, of the emerald blue waters, the dark green forests and the curving beaches below. The wind was strong enough that day, I feel, to have swept me at least as far out as the nearest island, should the rope have snapped.

Another incredible trip with the highest calibre companions.

2008-04-15T05:09:00.000-07:00

The New Place
Human Space Parkview Tower

Its small, bright, and mine for now. The warmer weather has made the draft gusting from between the sliding screenless windows much more pleasant. And the traffic at night on the busy street outside my window sounds, if I imagine hard enough, like the surf sliding up and down a nearby shoreline.

2008-04-15T04:14:00.000-07:00

Springtime in Seoul has sprung like a lion, hungrily overtaking its wintry prey.

Season changes in Korea don't ease in as they do in the shadows of the Mountains back home - a gradually increasing mean daytime temperature superimposed upon a reduced likelihood of freak blizzards by mid-June.

No, rather here the change is as abrupt as a calendar page flip, so quick as to making it hard to recall how the weather could have been otherwise than what it is today.

2008-03-10T03:33:00.000-07:00

And back again

After a 4.5 month sojourn I've returned to Seoul, and things are taking shape once again. Its actually quite a nice feeling to know what you'll be doing for another year, after considerable vagabondage. After 3 days in Seoul I took part in a week-long teaching orientation outside of the big smoke. And now I've moved into my new digs for the year, a studio apartment just a short stroll outside of the heart of this capital city. Quite a bit smaller, and less serene than last year's set up, though the working conditons and location make up for the difference.

This afternoon's medical examination, a new requirement for the alien registration card this year (an edifying moment; proving to your students that you are in fact an alien), proved to be an interesting experience. Dental, x-ray, blood, urine, hearing, eyesight and psychiatric assessment are now part of the apparatus to ensure that no one works in this country that shouldn't. For 70 dollars and all within 1 hour after dropping in, a real steal of a deal. I'll let you know if I'll be heading home should I fail. Hopefully my quality urine makes up for my pathetic eyesight, otherwise I'm in trouble.

Here's a bit from the "orientation and abstract thinking" portion of the psychiatric evaluation:

1- What time and day is it today and what month is it? Yes/No

2- What place is it that you are in today? Yes/No

3- Measure twice, cut once. What does this mean?

4- A good medicine tastes bitter. What does this mean?

and next, from the psychiatric problem survey:

Do you feel that anyone is talking or whispering to you?

Can you see anything that people around you cant see? (not with my eyes, apparently)

Do you feel that people around you know what you are thinking?

- so how'd you do? Hope you're all healthy and happy and psychiatric problem-free, wherever you may be. If this test proves inconclusive for anyone not applying for an E2 visa and registration card, I wouldnt worry so much. I'm going to read up on my Carl Jung.

2008-01-20T18:57:00.000-08:00

So, after nearly 4 weeks of life back in Canada, I've finally gotten around to processing the contents of my canon picture-taker. I've also since applied to the Seoul Public school board as a teacher, and have been offered a contract beginning early March. Before long I will be back in the land "where logic loses," but happily, as there is more than just a job there to be excited about!

Here's a look back at Thailand with a movie I have long been intending to complete.

2007-12-22T19:53:00.000-08:00

Phnom Penh - S21 Tuol Sleng detention center and the killing fields

Want to keep this on the shorter side, but after seeing what remains of the khmer rouge machinery, a few thoughts.

I have serious doubts that until we have, as a species, demonstrated univeral compassion, we will not have significantly transcended a most basic animal nature. We will simply remain as upright, more mechanized beasts, again and again acting out the dance of the sheep and the wolf. More appropriately perhaps, like dogs tearing each other apart.

One more - if we fail to support ONLY governments of legitimacy and tolerance, I can think of no reason why this same scenario should not continue to play out. But where next?

2007-12-17T01:50:00.000-08:00

Bangkok to Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

Starting to lose track of particular dates at this point, and so I've begun to exclude them from the headers. This could possibly be due to the fact that times and dates really dont mean much when you're going day to day on the road, but also perhaps because I'd like not to know how close to Christmas the calendar is approaching.

So from Khao San road in Bangkok, Justin and I set off for Poipet, a border hugging, rag-tag village between Thailand and Cambodia. Didnt spend much time here except to arrange further transportation to Siem Reap - launch pad to the Temples of Angkor Wat. The border is where we met our new companion, Won-il, a seriously expressive traveler from South Korea. The three of us spent 4 nights in Siem Reap and this morning left for Cambodia's capital city, Phnom Penh. The road from Poipet to Siem Reap (which means "victory over Siam"...awesome) was possibly the worst I've ever been on. For a 5 hour drive. Lakes were beginning to full the pot holes and I believe the lumps were actually more a result of mountain-forming geological uplift. K2s in the making. I've read that air line companies have bribed the government to slow any repairs/any actual high way construction to help convince more people to simply fly in. If buses (or myself) werent so cheap, I might consider it for next time.

Angkor Wat is magnificent. Its actually only one temple complex among many in the area, though it in particular is the largest temple ever built. The Khmer Kings built many structures as homes to their Gods, between roughly 900AD and 1200. After that point, wars and jungle have sought to conspire against the architecture. Rediscovered by the French in the 1800's, repairs and restorations ahve been underway since. Watched the sun drop and the sun rise over the stonework and spent 2 afternoons wandering the ruins. Can't help but to get the feeling of some great cosmic finger pointing at me and asking, "what will you build with your time?" The term "legacy building" seems often left to departing politicians but I do wonder about its meaning for the rest of us from time to time.

Its hour 4 in the capital now, and even with my limited exposure, I'd risk to say I expect a pretty cool time in the city. Perhaps "cool" should not be the word to use in describing the enormity and grotesqueness of the killing fields or detention/torture centers emplyed by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge in the late 70's, but I might just have something to say about those places tomorrow evening.

2007-12-12T07:27:00.000-08:00

Kho Phi Phi to Khao San Road Bangkok

Having left still Tsunami-recovering phi phi island, I feel I've left the SE asian beach scene for the rest of this particular asian sojourn. While I feel that the back packer travelling curcuit is, to varying degrees, inevitably hedonistic, phi phi island was a little too much for me. After 5 days on the island I find myself now in Bangkok, along the packer's nexus, khao san road. During a 5 minute's saunter one will hear at least 6 different languages, buy on average 2.3 t-shirts for less than 6 dollars each (dependant on the purchaser's bargaining prowess) hear about 3 minutes worth of Jack Johnson discography and likely stop for a 60 baht chang beer. Only slightly unexpectedly, friends met 2 months ago were re-met and stories were swapped over subway sandwiches and street-squeezed mandarine juice.

Yesterday Justin, Alicia and I visited Wat Po, an inner city temple complex and were diminished by the emmensity of the reclining Buddha, something like 46 metres of golden enlightenment-in-waiting. The evening found us ring-side at a muay thai tournament: thai kickboxing. Certainly one of the most kick ass (literally) experiences I've afforded myself during this trip. Woke up feeling like I' taken a few elbows to the skull myself.

Tomorrow should prove to be yet another fairly epic on-the-road day. We're packing up and heading across the thai border to Cambodia, towards Siem Reap and the remains of perhaps the greatest temple complexes on earth. I expect flash backs of Bhaloo the Bear and Moghli dancing to "i wanna be like you, shoo boo doo di bap doo wap" but I should really reference that scene's locale for accuracy of this statement.

Sometimes friends meet and pass so quickly, like a cloud's shadow over the plains, but this does not diminish the sweetness of the shade that is offered.

2007-12-05T01:33:00.000-08:00

Thailand - Krabi Province - Tonsai Beach
Nov 30 - Dec 5

I really find it hard to believe that the calendar page has flipped into the wintry scenes of December. Christmas seems years away, I'm even oblivious to the fact that its 4:39pm Wednesday (apparently). Beach time, on which I've been for a few weeks now, stretches off into the sunset horizon with nothing on agenda except tomorrow's sunshine and the night life until then.

The computer I now face in Ao Nang seems not to want to allow picture uploads, so I'll do my best to describe these magical places literally. It was another long travel day out of Palau Penang, Malaysia, to Krabi, Thailand, including a 2 hour immigration line up at the border. Finally, I was in Thailand! While the weather inside was frightful (they dont mess around with air conditioning in the mini buses here), the weather outside was delightful. I headed straight from Krabi to Tonsai beach, one in a row of beaches on a peninsula stretching into the Andaman Sea. This beach in particular is separated from the popular Raileh beach by soaring limestone cliffs screaming out of the blue green sea and deep green jungle. The past coral cliffs found all over the place here are what grace the peninsula with perhaps the best sport climbing anywhere in the world. And this is what I had in mind all along. Towing 15 pounds of climbing gear along with everything I couldn't leave behind in Korea has paid off big time.

The climbing offers steep juggy limestone similar to that in Yangshuo China, only with more stalagtites dripping down, more caves, and with the gently waving sea below, in trade for rice paddies. Some of the cliffs here look like the're positively melting, a sight to see. Very much like an old, thick candle burned to a stub, one that you've never bothered to pick the over-flowed-and-dried wax from the sides. Yes, very much like that.

Having finally sorted out a cash flow/ATM problem in Ao Nang, I'll probably stay here the night, somewhere, and head to Ko Phi Phi in the morning, a smallish but popular island off Thailand's west coast. Phi Phi offers more great climbing and probably a bit less of a Ton Sai chill out vibe, more of a depraved spring-break-style nightlife. Should be interesting.

Deep water soloing. Climbing without the nuisance of ropes with the added benefit of a much softer landing than otherwise. If you land appropriately that is.

How the game is played.

Ray Leh Beach, Krabi, and the Andaman Sea.

2007-11-29T06:47:00.000-08:00

Malaysia - November 28-30

A bit of a short story for the whole of the Malaysian peninsula, but a fairly epic travel day took Justin and I off Singapore Island and into the tiger-hiding jungles of Malaysia by bus. After a confuzzled bus transfer in the Kuala Lumpur, capital city, we headed further north to Butterworth, and from there, a short ferry trip to Pulau Penang. This island lies only about 3 hours by mini bus to the southern Thai border, so basically, I've watched an entire country pass by my window.

While super-eager to get once more onto sport-bolted limestone cave formations, this afternoon has been hugely enjoyable. Charming low-rising architecture with a supremely friendly people, next time I'm in the area I might have to stay a little longer. But tomorrow, alas, I'll be back on the bus. And if all goes well, I'll be celebrating a first Thailand climb with a beer in hand on a postcard beach, within 24 hours from this moment.

The Petronas Towers, the tallest twin towers on Earth, in Kuala Lumpur. Second tallest man-made structure, after Taipei 101. What a gyp.

A reminder, if you do have recreational drugs, toss them out the bus window now! Much better not to bother bringing them here in the first place. Death to drug traffickers in Malaysia, as well as in the Philippines. Yikes!

Sure love that garlic naan. And thats tikka chicken again too.

Malaysia is a Muslim country, but this island is peppered with chinese confucious shrines (man who steps through airport turnstile sideways always going to Bangkok), hindu temples, and christian churches as well as mosques and minarets. The spice of life runs deep here.

2007-11-29T06:05:00.000-08:00

Singapore - Nov 25-28

We'll start with a bit of small world syndrome: while staving off the effects of dehydration at Manila's Ultimate tournament two weeks ago, I ran into Adam, who also hails from Airdire Alberta, and was playing in the tournament as well. The Turner family and mine had crossed paths many times quite a bit earlier in history, but Adam having 5 other brothers, most of whom schooled around the same time as me, it's never wholly unlikely to meet randomly with one of the bros. Adam has been teaching in Singapore for the past 2 years and invited Justin and I to recharge at his place once we had left the Philippines.

Very quickly I was to learn that Singapore is unlike any city I've visited yet. Singapore is a city, and exists as its own country, much like the Vatican. Its fills a small tropical island just a smidgin away from the equator which lies south, and just a hair away from Malaysia to the north. It is a clean, healthy city crowned with graceful sky-scrapers and bejeweled by palm trees. The people of Singapore (3 million singaporeans and 1 million expats) exude confidence, smiles, wealth and style. Multiculturalism abounds as this has been an important trade crossroad between Europeans, Chinese, Indians, and Malaysians for centuries, and it would not be unlikely to hear the languages of each while enjoying an afternoon's stroll down the tree-lined Orchard road. I've about convinced myself, that some day, I'll be the 1,000,001st expatriate on the island.

A funky cafe near the river aptly named "Clinic" finds its patients immobilized and even if need be, fed alcohol through IV drip bags. The operation was a complete success!

One of my favorite spin-offs of multiculturalism (besides french exchange partners run-amuck)are the culinary adventures to be enjoyed. At Sammy's place, a former British colonial house, we enjoyed tikka chicken, masala, and the ever delicious garlic naan all over top a sprawling banana leaf. Who needs plates when you've got equatorial vegetation.

Not much in the way of pictures, but imagine downtown Calgary, surrounded by rainforest, without gum sticking to your shoes or anyone holding out an empty coffee cup to you, on a tropical island. With a drink named after your city. Absolutely amazing impression, further decorated by the overwhelming hospitality of one of its own.

2007-11-22T07:48:00.000-08:00

Thanks-Sharing

In acknowledgment of the holiday my American friends celebrate today, but also because this is something I feel, like Valentines (possibly also New Years), that should/could be celebrated everyday, a thanks giving:

To the people who have painted my world beautiful with Love, understanding, generosity, companionship, patience, helpfulness and guidance - I thank You.

For the people who make this world worth traveling through their kindness and their work towards spreading peace - Grazie.

To the higher, always mysterious power which consistently prevents me from causing myself disastrous harm through my own grievous shortsightedness, ignorance, or plain stupidity - Kamsahamnida.

My cup runneth over completely. It could never be big enough.

2007-11-20T02:10:00.000-08:00

Manila and Boracay Island, Philippines

November 13-25

Manila Spirits Final Match - Ringers of Fire vs Shanghai

Manila Mall entertainment - lightweight kickboxing matches

White Beach, Boracay

It is so emboldening stretching the line over fine powdery sand. Doesn't hurt nearly so much to bail off comapred to over the paving bricks in my Seoul apartment's coutyard. I think this is what the inventors of slackline had in mind all along :)

Philippines

Manila, capital city, was an experience rich in apparent disparity between the have-nots and the more fortunates, and also a whole hell of a lot of fun. Justin and I spent the first few nights in Malate, an inner city neighbourhood known for its seedy night clubs and cafes, street kids, and crappy western fried food. The latter, to which I have been (disgracefully) giving into increasingly often, attests to the larger number of obese people than I've observed anywhere else over this last year in Asia. Still no match for North America! Anyways, I digress.....

Towards the end of the week we started hanging in other, much more affluent neighbourhoods with Ultimate Frisbee players who began streaming into town, for the much anticipated Manila Spirits International tournament. A last minute decision had me fitting into a team of Hong Kong players, and heading into my first truly competitive ultimate frisbee event. After each of the 2 sunny, sweaty and muddy days of playing various Asian teams was a seriously wicked party, very demonstrative of the hugely generous, friendly and chilled mentality of Philippine people I've observed so far. This part of town featured houses out of Belair, fresh prince style. A very cool and fortunate introduction to Ultimate, and to the Philippines.

After the tournament, I've found myself with about 15 others from the tournament on an island paradise known as Boracay. This place features beautifully cerulean and warm ocean waters, palm trees, perfect white sand, sweet parties and lots of Korean couples. Something I had forgotten about was that Koreans LOVE to honeymoon at this place, a target clientelle possibly seconded only by western backpackers. So it turns out I STILL can satisfy those late night kimchi cravings. If I were having those, that is. Seriously, this place is beautiful! While I'll keep my date with destiny and a PADI scuba diving cert course for Thailand, I can get lots of work in here on my slackline between palm trees and a new project, skim boarding.

2007-11-14T06:32:00.000-08:00

Hong Kong - the afternoon lay-over on November 13.

After a comfortable but literally packed-to-the-ceiling ride on a sleeper bus out of Yangshuo, Justin and I arrived in Shenzen, and from there an efficient ride on the subway took us to the work of corporate artwork that is Hong Kong. Without much else in mind, we lugged our packs heavy with climbing gear to the Victoria mountain tram, taking us to the top of a peak overlooking downtown and the fragrant harbour. Hong Kong to be quite honest, begs a serious question to Seoul: "are you kidding me?" Hong Kong is expensive, but we really didnt have too much time time the spend the money we had since we were to catch a flight to Manila, Philippines, that evening, and most of our time was occupied with testing Justin's new remotely controlled helicopter and hacky-sacking anyways. An interesting lead on an outdoor job in Hong Kong might have me back there before too long.

2007-10-29T00:04:00.000-07:00

Jade backs me up at twin mountain crag, one of many karst mountains absolutely riddled with caves going straight through.

Justin applies a trusted, and recommended, Chinese herbal remedy (cigarette tobacco) to an injury sustained on the bike ride back into town.

The River Li, near Yangshuo.

West Street, Yangshuo. Great food, cool bargains, lots of hostels, and rats at night.

A very special place. Really though, being a 50 minute ride still from town, we should have left the crag long before this picture was taken.

Bridge-side bike parking during a post-climb, beer-fueled, Yu Long River swim.

Finnish friends and birthday-first-day climbers, Sarah, Hannele, and Nina, ponder high-risk activities beneath Baby Frog Crag.

The incredible archway of Moon Hill, the first sport climbing crag near Yangshuo to be sussed by Todd Skinner et al in the early 90's.

Chris points the way to White Mountain, jug fests and face climbs starting mid 5.10s.

October 29 - Yangshuo, Southern China

After leaving Beijing and 27 hour train ride, I have found myself in Yangshuo. The prices are cheap, the sun feels warm, and the mountains sticking up all over the country side offer the best climbing I've ever experienced. I've been here almost a week now, and I expect that it will be at least another week, or 3, before I feel any urge to leave. Once our day's group has packed up after an afternoon of climbing on the most fantastic karst limestone walls, it might be off to the river, or a cave, for a cool down swim. Perhaps bottles of beer will clang around in the basket on my rented bicycle along the dusty dirt track. We might plan to meet at an amazing vegetarian restaurant back in town for the evening, or schedule an hour massage for less than 10 dollars. And afterwards, chinese brandy on the balcony under a mandarin orange full moon? Yes, life here has been very, very nice.

When I begin to feel guitly, I remind myself of the difference between irresponsibility, and a lack of pressing responsibilities. I tell myself that its the latter under which my current situation falls. And damn, it feels wonderful.

2007-10-20T17:42:00.000-07:00

Last bit of Korea - October 2007

Hands-down, favorite sport climbing route in Korea, "Elieda" at Ganyeon. It seemed so much harder last december! Awesome last climbing weekend with Nic, Kris and Jessie. Thanks again.

Last weekend road trip to Seoraksan park with my extended Korean family. Trees manage to put down roots just about anywhere, don't they?

Last night - last chance to try SamNakji - live baby octopus. Tastes very much like cooked octopus, but squiggles more and tends to suck on to the inside of your cheeks. Mani Mashiseyo!

Leaving Incheon port harbour. Here goes......

Seoul to Beijing: mid-October

After a truly spectacular year, and last few months in Seoul, South Korea, I find myself in Beijing, China. About a 20 minute walk brings me to face the enormity of Tiananmen square, the largest public square in the world. And in front of that lies the series of gates leading to the Forbidden City, palace to the imperials for nearly 600 years. The city screams of history, and of change in anticipation of the 2008 Olympics. Entire neighborhoods are being levelled to make room for shopping and accomodation, a new history I suppose.

On a rented bike I entered the maze of Beijing's hutong, the alleyways off of which traditional residential courtyards lie. Even these are being cosmeticized. City contracted workers paint every outside wall dark grey, sharply contrasting the red of the chinese flags hung from rooftops. Luckily for this hapless navigator, much of the city is arranged according to fengshui tennets, making it unlikely for even me to become disoriented. This trip is afterall, all about Orientation.

An overnight tour of the Great Wall, from Simatai to Jinshanling, will hopefully be in store for tomorrow and its following, and after that its down south towards warmer weather and the climbing I have come for.

If you've been steadfast enough to be still checking this journal after about a 3 month dry-spell, I assure you that I'll be posting my experiences more regularily now. But also know that this log is just as much for me as it is for any of you, and I should warn you, and remind you, that often I just don't know whats best for me. A disclaimer, if you will. I hope the waning fall finds everyone healthy, happy, and warm. And regular, in a GI kind of way. If you know what I mean. Peace.

People's Heroes Monument, Tiananmen Square. Politburo headquarters in the background.

Entrance to the Forbidden city. Big Brother isnt still watching you, he's dead and embalmed down the road.

China's Great Wall - Jinshanling to Simitai.

Thank God for the translated menu! Luckily for Mom I went for the Black mushrooms rape, and pull out the silk banana, with a side of fry to infuse the bowel instead.

2007-09-06T18:56:00.000-07:00

Work Shots

The time I've got left to work in South Korea has been flying past like Hyundais on the Dongbu. Thought I'd post what I've been up to other than on weekends, for a change.

Obligatory swim caps and 20 minute break sessions won't phase these kids.... its field trip day!

With the APEC summit going down under in Sydney this weekend, the grade ones thought they'd put their two baek wons in by calling for binding targets on green house emissions. This will be their Asia for much longer than it will be Australia's John Howard's.

The craziness I've been dealing with, and have come to relish in. No children were harmed in the submittance of this photo petition.

http://www.avaaz.org/en/apec_petition/j.php
First weekend climbing road trip in far too long (a month?)...its off to Daegu tomorrow!

2007-08-07T08:49:00.000-07:00

Alice: Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?

Cat: That depends a good deal on where you want to get to.

Alice: I don't much care where....

Cat: Then it doesn't matter which way you go.

Alice: ....so long as I get somewhere.

Cat: Oh, you're sure to do that, if you only walk long enough.

Planes, Trains and Automobiles

These next three postings visualize my wanderings through the course of my week long summer vacation. It started with a subway ride to Yongsan, a terminal of Korea's high-speed KTX train. Before arriving at Yongsan, I had intended to keep costs low and travel economically, and slowly. In about 5 minutes I had sold this idea out, and was on the next, fastest train out of Seoul, to Mokpo, in the south-west corner of the peninsula. Nearly the furthest I could get from the capital. I had decided months ago that it looked pretty cool on the map.

Mokpo - Monday

After a night of wandering along the beach and sharing charades and beers with a pair of locals, I decided that save some fun pictures, Mokpo probably held less interest for me than I had originally imagined. And so I decided by morning to head further south by ferry to Jeju Island, Korea's own subtropical Hawaii. Hopefully I'd be able to get a hold of Neal, a co-worker, who was visiting a friend and scoping jobs there.

Economy class

Much nicer views atop the deck. With a borrowed Steinbeck along for the ride and all the ocean scenery I could ask for, I was in Jeju before I knew it.

2007-08-07T07:58:00.000-07:00

Jeju Island - Hamdeok Beach

Jeju's local black-pig galbi looked, as it turned out, no different than the pink-pig variety I had come to love so much elsewhere. Silly me - Mashisoyo!

Neal presents our airy beach-side accomodations Wednesday night. Cheaper than the Hyatt, with better views anyways! Though on the other hand, the Hyatt probably would have saved us from another 7-11-esque Ramyun noodle breakfast.

I learned an important lesson on Jeju - to consider buying return tickets while visiting on the busiest week of the year for domestic tourism. It is after all, an island. With all ferries and airlines booked solid through the last weekend of my holiday, my only recourse was to cast lots and ride standby Korean Air. I won, and was oddly thankful, in a way, to be able to return to my job in Seoul, by Monday.

Enroute from Gimpo aboard the airport bus, riding back to my end of the Big Haze, a quick call with Nicole had me turn back around, just one stop from my own subway station. Another KTX train ride, and some Busan/Ulsan climbing was still in store for my summer holiday. I could always wash the clothes I had in the shower after all. And so, it was back to the south of South Korea.

2007-08-07T06:29:00.000-07:00

Munsusan - Ulsan

Along the approach to the crag, a silent Buddha waits calmly in a cave grotto.

Chris, Amanda and Ross(?) each take the sharp end and head up.

Nic negotiates an exposed traverse with aplomb, heading down from the crag.

2007-07-29T20:47:00.000-07:00

July 2007

So, at the end of the Korean monsoon season sans monsoon, I post again. My account shows that July 5th was my last posting. Really, not all that long ago! However I've been busy most weekends with birthday season in full swing, climbing sessions mostly un-hampered by the rains that have failed to materialize, and in the pursuit of fairly unique opportunities afforded by amazing companions and an ever-surprising country.

It is Monday, the first official day of my summer holidays. As I've only got a week, I'm slightly unimpressed with the fact that I'm still in front of my computer, on a very sunny Seoul day. That being said, once I see this posting through, get some breakfast in me (it's only 1pm) and organize gear, I'll be headed for Yongsan train station. Not exactly sure where I'm headed, and so, any track will take me there. I've nearly two months left until the end of my contract, two anticipated months of pleasant weather, continued travel, eagerly-awaited guests, and fate knows what else. If you've a solid plan as to what I should do after my contract expires, you're better off than me.

Pictures tell a thousand words, but video seems to speak even more. As does music. Most of this footage is from the past month, but once I published to You-Tube, I realized that some mid-March bouldering snuck in there. Toques are a death wish in July. A bit like climbing on occasion, I suppose.

2007-07-02T19:37:00.000-07:00

River Run - Danyang - Gangwondo Province

Spent the most delicious weekend, the last of June, in the company of Kris, Jessie, and Nicole - solid friends I've made through the community of climbers in South Korea. Sport climbing, lately, has taken a bit of a back seat to a host of other very enjoyable weekend leisurisms, rafting being amongst them. The funny thing about climbers, they're more than typically quick to jump into any other activity involving fresh air, the colour green, and a dece amount of thrill, even if it means leaving the rope at home. We did bring our shoes and harness however -just in case. Bit of a weekend survival kit these days.

Put together my first video comp from clips taken with my camera. Not the worst way to spend 2-3 hours before work starts in the morning. More to come. Thanks to Nic for hanging out onshore under heavy and darkening skies to grab footage. Twice.

I'm headed back to Danyang this weekend to hit up rafting once again, this time of the more commercial sort. Paintball will also be involved. Hang gliding would have made the list if wasn't so unreasonably priced. It's as if their factoring the worth of a life into the final cost. Pisayo!

2007-06-12T18:46:00.000-07:00

The Inconvenience of Truth

Watched Al Gore's inconvenient truth a couple of evenings ago. While the science he presents seems to be taken straight out of my 4th year climate change geography class, what I found particularily interesting is his assertion that controversy and disagreement exists not within the scientific community, but within popular media. The IPCC isn't quite the fringe group of radically liberal leaning scientists that some would suggest. The science comes from the work of hundreds of scientists in over 100 countries. While I think Gore has his own political motivation and deliberately glosses a few issues while leaving others entirely unmentioned, the evidence of big change is there - the writing is on the wall, so to speak in facebook terms.

The sliver of doubt concerning mankind's hand in the change we're witnessing seems to be justified reason for putting off action of any sort. In this arm-chair geographer's opinion, Earth's natural feedback systems will take over nicely once the tipping point has been reached, trumping any hope of reversing our impact. Once that happens, what we do really wont matter. Cars have been around for less than a century in history, and we are having this insurmountable crisis in imagining a way humans can exist without them. The tax of civilization seems to be the inability to save ourselves.

Listening to a lot of different music these days, but this song puts the message quite nicely:

"It's a matter of prescience - No, not the science fiction kind - It's all about ignorance, and greed, and miracles for the blind. The media parading, disjointed politics. Founded on petrochemical plunder, and we're its hostages! If you stand to reason you're in the game. The rules might be elusive but our pieces are the same - and you know if one goes down we all go down as well.

The balance is precarious as anyone can tell.

Don't allow this mythologic hopeful monster to exact its price.

We can't do nothing and think someone else will make it right."

- Bad Religion

2007-06-11T19:57:00.000-07:00

Dusky rice fields to the north of Seoul, punctuated by the eagerly lengthening shoots, reflect the summer-hazy skies above

Train rides somedays feel too short, even on the slow track, en route to Kanyeon to the East

Buddha's Birthday brought colour and excitement to streets and holy places in Seoul, rivalling that of the christmas season. Spring melts into summer like an il-chon-on waffle cone in Joongkyedong.

an end to mysteriousness

While a month without word might indicate that I've been swept up and lost within a frenetic flury of friends and freedom, I can also admit a growing rootedness within my place here, to the changing seasons, to ever-evolving relationships and to my yet uncertain future plans. Some shots from the past month or so...

It has been so thrilling to share in the excitement of rock climbing with such an inspiring, warm community of climbers and will be's - another bomber day at kanyeon

Rafting along the Hantangang near the DMZ pulled to the surface memories of the Kootenai ribbon and the Bow back closer to home, but with days like this, finding and being home is a state of mind - and it is a wonderful place.

2007-05-14T20:12:00.000-07:00

Ill Chillin'

Transnational

The past few weekends have been full of hastily caught train rides, bus rides, sleeping on floors, climbing, and generally having a wicked time all over South Korea.

Justin caps off a slackline sess with some good ol' tree branch campusing.

Busan lies along the SE coast of South Korea, and besides the subtropical island claimed by Korea in the south, exists as the furthest destination possible away from Seoul. A big city with a small town feel, it would be easy to fork over the cash for the train here every weekend of beach season.

Haeundae Beach - Busan

At the groggy hour this picture was taken, the horizon seemed a bit more horizontal. A 4-hour sleep and 1 pizza slice later, everything was perfect in the world.

2007-05-14T19:54:00.000-07:00

Youngyoung (Daegu), The Bull - May 4-6

As this thing's been haunting my dreams since first scoping it out on a climbing site before even leaving for Korea, it was time for some bull fighting. The bull is located about an hours drive from Daegu, while the rock we were on is only about a 30 minute city bus ride. Certainly, one of the most unique artifical climbing areas I've ever seen/flailed about on. There is a bomb-shell-riddled building in Berlin that has been attracting some attention, but thats another year.

Immediately preceding one of the more nasea-inducing falls I've experienced.....

Chris takes the sharp end at Youngyoung.

Miguel ties in under some of the prettiest 11a's outside of Lake Louise.

Rick grabs the bull by the.... whatever! Gets the job done with style.

2007-05-14T19:37:00.000-07:00

Jeonju, Yeoseo climbing - April 28-29

Between an international film fest, korean punk rock, good friends and stunning rock climbing, what else would one need to justify a weekend trip to Jeonju, a small-ish university town 4 hours south of Seoul?

2007-04-23T07:28:00.000-07:00

What Les really needs..... (besides a haircut)

Good, objective advice, has never been so easy or cheap. Honestly, I'll never throw money away on Miss Cleo again. Simply google search "(your name) needs" Check out the top results, and see where your life has thus far been lacking. Let me know how you make out, here's mine. This was the best 5 minutes I spent all day. Besides brushing and flossing. Anyways, I'll get to work on this list tomorrow. Saban Beware.

1- Really, Les needs lookers.

2- I really hope Les can stick it to LSU's old coach, if Miles wants to be the love of Louisiana like Saban was, Les NEEDS to 1) beat Saban and 2) win a national championship. But I would say that beating Saban is a must.

3- Les needs to review section 5

4- Les needs to find a water source or suffer the ravages of dehydration. He sets up camp under a sheltering juniper tree near a stream and keeps the growing hunger pains at bay by drinking constantly.

5- Les needs not to be explicit on the server.

6- ...the meaning of LES needs to be reconsidered.

2007-04-19T17:58:00.000-07:00

Happy Wildness Men ! [sic] - author unknown

We are happy men!

We love nature;

We live on hunt;

We live together;

We are mightiness;

We are bravery;

There is no polity, no war,

no money;

The only thing we want is to go along with themen we love

and binge together, live up together.

The only thing better than fully experiencing the soulful uplift from a poem of this depth (as you are likely just beginning to come down from now), is reading it off a ceramic mug you've found on your desk one morning at work. Many thanks to Rachel and Trevor for this inspiring post-birthday surprise!

2007-04-15T20:17:00.000-07:00

Week-end climbing

Seoninsan Park

Sarah and Nic at Soksal Bawi

This weekend on the calendar marked the springtime get-togther for Korea on the Rocks, the foreign climbing community in Korea. We met the other climbers in Seoninsan park after a 4 hour train ride from the city. The scenery here is perhaps the most striking I've seen in the south half of this peninsula. Flat, stretching rice fields gave way through the window to rolling hills of cherry orchards, and then to the mountains of Seoninsan. After a bit of an epic approach, we arrived at Sokal Bawi, where we climbed until the sun touched the treed horizon.

After a soju, slackline and striptease-dancing (of korean male variety) -filled night at the campsite, we spent Sunday under cloudy skies and the rock at Halmae Bawi.

Gary high-steps to send.

Nicole in her element, working out forearm pump after another sweet climb.

Amanda from Busan wraps up another quality Sunday climbing session, at Halmae Bawi.

2007-04-15T19:35:00.000-07:00

Bit of a story behind this one.... a few weeks ago Nic and I hiked up to the base of Seoninbong, a peak within Seoul, with the Korean members of the bouldering club we're with. After a humbling, but spectacularly moonlit slab training climb, we headed down to the campsite where for the evening. This table spread was the focal point of a mountain Shamanism ceremony staged later that evening.

This particular ceremony involved invoking mountain spirits with offerings of korean food dishes, Makoli (rice wine, lots of it) and money, which in paper envelopes was stuffed into the pig's mouth and ears. In gaining the favour of the mountain we request safe climbs, celebrate the companionship of mountaineering, and delve into fateful dialogue with nature. With the spirits on our side I safely multipitched the peak the next afternoon, with a team of perhaps the most accomplished moutaineers on the Peninsula. Mr Jung placed second in X-game climbing in the late 90's, behind one of Canada's most visionary climbers, Will Gadd. Jung and the others will be in Northern Pakistan in May to free the Trango Towers -so while Seoninbong was a challenging first multipitch for me, it was a hazy sunday cakewalk for them.

Easter Sunday climbing at Kanyeon, about a 2 hour train ride South and East of Seoul, near the city of Wonju.

The end of another full weekend in South Korea. Exhausted as I was at this point (still ahead of a 2 hour train ride on the floor), this really beats lying around after a night of Soju Koolaid in the big city.

2007-04-12T18:43:00.000-07:00

Spring Time in Seoul

Spring time has arrived in Korea with the passing of March, bringing with her all sorts of natural vibrancy not seen since the turning leaves last fall. Trees have burst with cherry and magnolia blooms, a kind reminder that nature trumps society in producing the greatest beauty. These blossoms have been a revitalizing force for me - a lesson that with patience and awareness, brilliant things present themselves everywhere.

2007-03-28T18:21:00.000-07:00

Birthday Madness

Alright so what's a 26th birthday weekend without catching a World's soccer match second-row, cheesy dakgalbi (the best kind), an AM Big Buddha-san hike, pancakes in the morning, 2 hootenanai wake-ups, and pulling a full nelson submission on a frothing mad, rent-raising korean landlady?

During class on monday I left the room to check the bathroom for a kid who'd been gone for suspiciously long. I came back into the school foyer to see my boss being dragged out of her office from her sweet pay-cheque-signing-50-year-old-hair by this screaming monster of an ajumma. No kidding. She was at least 3 meters tall, and had fangs. I pulled the lady off and she went beserk. Absolutely wild. Something about being chicken-winged straight into the water cooler by a skinny white teacher guy will do that I suppose. But even I wouldn't try to bite the guy's thumb off. I think every student in the building had their ears pressed to the doors to hear what this woman was screaming about.

5 minutes later, I'm back in the classroom, red-faced, scratched and disheveled. Basically, the look I'm going for. "Who's next!!??" In another classroom, a teacher asks if the woman had been saying some really bad words. The kid who speaks about 27 english words stands up and says "yeah, like 3000."

There's a Korean saying "the law is far but the fist is near" Absolute idiocy when the police show up, and arrange a friendly meeting between my boss and Count Dracula's Korean mistress. The entire police force must have been raised on dubbed-over Full House re-runs, I figure. Lets hope the Korean public never, ever get guns. Her big problem - something to do with extending a teacher's lease on his apartment, or something to that tune. Hey, I'm 26. It's about time I got in a fight.

Alright, now brace yourself, you are about to join the priviledged few who have witnessed this mystic annual ritual performed by my brother Dan and my new sister Margie. (no, not that ritual)

- The Birthday Dance -
This seems to be a fairly new family tradition (as I was not aware of its existence until 2am Saturday morning), but one I'm sure will pass the test of time and become yet another honoured passage marker within the inner sanctum and beyond. If you are thinking to yourself, "but Les' birthday was not until monday," you are correct. Dan had jumped the gun on the 26th, and so this event actually happened twice for me. It was like winning the lottery, but instead of winning money, I got an over-the-phone-hootenanai. Twice. Thanks for this, Dan and Margie!

While Korea (red) lost to Uruguay (bum-touching) 2-0, the game was awesome to be at. The stadium's architecture itself, designed to host Korea's world cup in 2002, is an inspiring testament to Korean ingenuity. While this was simply a "friendly match," the approaching-capacity crowd was very involved. This sport, like so many others, is infinitely more entertaining to witness live than to watch from a television set. Leave North America and you will find, suddenly, that soccer is a Big Deal. Many, many thanks to Nicole and co. for arranging this suprise for me.

On a tranquil note, Bulam-san (Big Buddha) peak, left and back. Another nice way to celebrate a new day, springtime, and the beginning of my 26th year.

Coming up this weekend, (weather, and sleeping bag permitting): Mountain Shamanism, and Seoninbong multipitch climbing/camping. Not weather-permitting: Games night alla Shannon.

2007-03-19T20:11:00.000-07:00

House of Pain - Redux - by Brother Dan (B.Sc. Kin, CFC, RMT, politically-correct-rapper-extraordinaire)

Clearly, my brother is a unique individual, and is more productive in his downtime than I will ever be. This is awesome, and scary.

"I intend to strike the union of your bilateral thigh musculature to your pelvic girdle in a manner to enable the initiation of a rally in racquet sports, similar to the way in which one of the all-time greatest tennis stars, Jonathan MacEnroe, would have performed. Likewise, if your female companion approaches me in a competitive manner, I will strike said female with the dorsum surface of my hand, as if she were a common street-worker in the sex trade.

Groups of consonant and vowel sounds grouped together to imply meaning are coded and directed towards your matriarchal family member, with the intention to inform her that I have come to disseminate all of my explosive devices.

I have the ability to produce more numerous rhyming couplets and quartets than the 151 canonical and non-canonical chapters of prayers derived from ancient Greek and Hebrew texts, now commonly found in the King James Version of the Good News Bible under the Book of Psalms. But just as in the Parable of the Lost Son described in the Gospel of Luke (Chapter 15 verse 11-32), I too have returned to my land of origin.

Any individual who attempts to walk towards my personal space in a competitive manner will receive thermal injuries to their superficial tissues. This is mainly due to the fact that I can produce words and tune in time and rhythm that is appealing to the ears, and you unfortunately do not possess this skill. When you attempt to enter into the mêlée of conflict, ensure that you have on your persons a double-barreled smoothbore shoulder firearm that is typically used to scatter pellet-like “shots” over short range. However if you choose this course of action, any self-determining individual would consider you somewhat of a professional jester or a dolt; for when I engage in private quarrels to settle conflict, the altercation will cease only when my opponent has settled down for the long dirt nap. If you take an extra step towards my general direction and infiltrate my personal space, the next inspiration of ambient air will be your last, thus leaving your body tissues in a state of hypoxia.

I possess the ability to defeat you in a competitive mano-a-mano confrontation, so draw closer and experience first hand the pain which I will dole out to your physical being in as much quantity as you can personally handle. When I attack, however, expect that my offensive maneuvers are delivered with the intention of depriving you of your life…" - D.C.T.

"I'll serve your ass like John MacEnroe - If your girl steps up, I'm smacking the ho. Word to your moms I came to drop bombs I got more rhymes than the bible's got psalms - And just like the Prodigal Son I've returned Anyone stepping to me you'll get burned - Cause I got lyrics and you ain't got none - So if you come to battle bring a shotgun - But if you do you're a fool, cause I duel to the death -Try and step to me you'll take your last breath I gots the skill, come get your fill - Cause when I shoot ta give, I shoot to kill." -H.O.P.

2007-03-19T19:45:00.000-07:00

Geumgangsan, North Korea - March 9-11

I've been scratching my head for the past week, wondering how to adequately describe this place with my ponderous vernacular and limited grammatical skill. Instead, I've decided, finally, to let my pictures do the talking. (Well most of the talking)

Over two days our group hiked among some of the most stunning scenery I've ever seen. Tummy trouble aside, this place severely complicated my pre-conceived notions of an inhospitable, dreary and dismal Hinterland. I expect this to be the most beautiful place I'll find on the Korean peninsula. These are the diamond mountains.

2007-03-15T19:36:00.000-07:00

This picture is contraband. Though for all my sweat through North Korean customs, I managed a sneaky picture of a genuine North Korean village.

A mural some 15 feet high showing (Dear) Kim Jong-Il, and (Great) Kim Il-Sung, somewhere on Mars by the looks of things. Geoff and Brent - eat your hearts out. I must admit that this picture was not taken by my hand. You must hand the North Korean agent your camera so that he might ensure that no part of the leaders has been cropped, which would be showing the most callous disrespect.

That's much better. Don't mess with freedom of speech.

Shingyesa Temple - organized religion has been abolished in the North. This temple is somehow allowed, rebuilt very recently by a South Korean monk. This man, and many, many northerners, anxiously await reunification.

2007-03-12T10:07:00.000-07:00

"The Aquariums of Pyongyang - Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag" by Kang Chol-Hwan and Pierre Rigoulot

I had hoped to gain some perspective concerning the Democratic People's Republic of Korea before heading there myself. I was to spend one night in the 4-star, South Korean owned Oekumgang Hotel. Kang Chol-Hwan was sentenced to 10 years in the Yodok work camp when he was 8 years old. I climbed a mountain to take some nice pictures, Mr. Kang climbed mountains to gather heavy logs and to bury his dead friends.

The book illuminates the North Korean government's absolute failure to recognize any political or civil rights for its people. It shows a real life enactment of the dark future created in Orwell's 1984. There are the privileged upper party members, the lower party, and the masses. Brainwashing is considered daily hygiene. Dissent, demonstration, logical thought, freedom of speech and information, or anything that resembles these in the slightest are quickly crushed - wiped from the memory of ever happening at all. History is re-written and education censored to enshrine the leader as savior, giver, enlightened-guide.

Double-think, the act of subscribing to purely contrary dogma simultaneously, is actively encouraged so as to ensure the control of an insanely hypocritical dictator. The only currency accepted in the tourist enclosure we stayed at - the US dollar. Don't think, its too difficult and dangerous.

A country of mystery and contradiction. This is Pyongyang at rush hour. Strikingly beautiful with urban forests and empty roadways. A triumphal arch celebrating the genius of the Kims.

Please don't assume that these pictures are mine. They are not. Soldiers were at every corner to make sure we couldn't take home a picture of something accurately North Korean. I wonder how they feel about google earth?

2007-03-08T08:40:00.000-08:00

I figure I'd distract the eye with another shot of Insubong under bluebird March skies, before launching into this tirade I've felt smouldering inside since walking home tonight.

I was harried by two teams of pedestrian evangelists on my way to the bouldering gym. No more than half a street apart from each other. In my haste to escape the first team, I found myself halfway into a busy interesection before being pulled back, realizing too late that it wasn't safe (or legal) to cross yet and that I was about to become one with the tires of oncoming traffic. After waiting an eternity for the walk light, I safely made it across only to be confronted by a second group, advocating that God is in fact a female, and I've been a bad, bad man for not observing Passover. To provide a bit more background in respect to my feelings towards speaking about God with perfect strangers, I refuse to answer my door before heading to work as nearly thrice a week its Jehovah Witnesses ready to wish me good morning. Is sleeping-in against the rules as well?

I'm far from ready to toss God out with the bath water of organized religion, but I'm not going to afford these folks another minute to wash me with arguments for the true chromosomal combination of the creator. I simply don't care. God just might be trans-gendered. What about that? Shouldn't matter one bit.

The celestial intersection behind me, I was nearly at the subway when a man holding a fully spread newspaper in front of his face walked straight into me as he was heading down the stairs. I nearly ingested the business section. Clearly, I should have turned and hustled back down the stairs to let this metrocrat pass before I walked back up. This kind of on-the-spot insight must come only after more than 6 months in Seoul. I'm 3 days past 5.

Bouldering was great. Finally made good on my promise to the manager to purchase a membership. Unfortunately, that means a lot more hassles outside the Church on the way. Damn, just thought of that now.

One more before I'm through. Heading back, I approached an obviously loaded Korean woman in trackpants, and some friends helping her to walk straight. She tossed an orange juice carton onto the asphalt alleyway, and as I treated her to the pick-that-up-you-irresponsible-littering-idiot stare, she kicked the carton and covered me with the half litre of pulpy goodness that was left inside. Ten minutes later, it felt absolutely exquisite to lock my apartment door behind me for the night.

Tomorrow night I'll sleep on a bus enroute to the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. But don't be confused. This is actually what North Korea calls itself. Much more on the absurdity of the sole remaining Stalinist regime to come. At this point, I feel it's safe to publish that much without jeopardizing my safety or my weekend trip, though I'll leave it at that.

2007-02-21T08:42:00.000-08:00

Lunar New Year's Weekend - Sokcho

So as to celebrate New Years for the second time in 2 months, Shannon, Nic, Gilles, Geoff and I set off for the east coast, last friday night after work. We anticipated a 16-hour, bumper-to-bumper epic bus ride. Somehow the holiday traffic was headed the opposite direction, and so we arrived in Sokcho with about 5 hours before the sun rose than morning. Which of course was filled with fried bacon (samgyeopsal-here, eating 3 pounds of pork is legit), poker, and soju, followed up with frisbee on the beach. A beautiful start to a very merry new year.

On our last afternoon we did get out to spend a few hours wandering in Seoraksan park, the crown jewel of South Korea's mountain wildernesses. While the clouds kept the tallest peaks from view, we were far from ambitious and took our time among the streams, leaves, and temples below.

What follows is a short testament to the events between arriving in Sockcho and our musings beneath Seorak. Sleep, I'm learning, is best kept for weekdays, and too much laughter is simply an impossibility. Another one for the books. All the best for 2007, in the lunar calendar that is.

2007-02-21T07:00:00.000-08:00

As check-out time approaches, its nearly time to call it a night. But not quite yet. Geoff and Shannon decide once and for all that barley for breakfast truly is priceless.

Shannon demonstrates a polite, customary Korean, 2-handed soju pour. Some cultures also practice filling the glass past the meniscus full-point and out onto the table, but its not typical in Korea. Maybe in Wisconsin.

As our small group constituted half of Hotel Sorak Park's New Years weekend clientelle, the highly-acclaimed rainbow club casino remained closed. Gilles and Geoff try their luck and money at street fighter instead, and later, with dance-dance revolution. Certainly much better odds than roulette.

Noraebang tends to get a little exciting. Especially when the Ghostbusters theme song comes up on the list. Or was this Lou Reed? Probably not - but this is something that North America is seriously lacking. I mean karaoke rooms, and Ghostbusters. Who else would you call? Please.

Things get a little out of hand at this point. Charges may be pending, but in Gilles defense, didn't an empty hotel drive Jack Torrence a little over the edge as well? A Shining example of how whiskey yields unpredicatable, yet memorable outcomes.

All work and no play make Jack dull boy. This will be my last long-weekend until the end of July. No kidding. The public school teaching calendar in Canada is looking pretty decent to me at this point.

2007-02-13T07:00:00.000-08:00

Along the way - some snaps I grabbed on just another bluebird winter Sunday

I've still yet to harness the awesome power of the bean within my cooking - not sure how they'd taste with grilled cheese and spam, but maybe someday I'll try my own soup.

Mystery fish in a daisy chain for only W40,000 - Word.

Well since the purchase of my guitar - alright, ever since the computer even - my self-directed Korean lessons have dropped off rather sharply. However signs like this make reading practice fun. Lets see how close it comes... Hah-ee-mah-teu. Hi-Mart. A simplified alphabet makes Hangeul (Korean) accessible to the peasantry, yet difficult to phonetically translate into English.

As its on the edges of Seoul, I'm able to longcut - skirt into the forest, escape the city for a few minutes and drop right in behind the Dangogae wall. Living along Seoul's jagged northern boundary, a walk in the woods and a jaunt down busy neon-lit thorough-fares might be the difference of a block. I love where I am.

A new acquaintance in climbing, Jae Il, Ko. When I'm 67, I want to spend Sundays chilling at climbing walls too. They sure know how to age out here.

As I've got plenty to look forward to, February has been just flying along. A long weekend on the East coast back in Sokcho, and a North Korean hiking trip in early March. More on both of these trips soon, but for now, here's a bit of Democratic People's Republic of Korea trivia you can impress your colleagues with:

Kim Jong Il is widely believed to control the weather in the North, and his father, having died more than a decade ago, constitutionally remains the head of state. Bananas!

2007-02-05T05:42:00.000-08:00

A Presidential Message on Global Warming - and "Winter" in Seoul.

Nothing grabs Korean attention like a bunch of short-clad weigooks (whites) playing river-side Ultimate Frisbee on a February afternoon. The pile of sand in the background is for the beach they're building along the Han. Its hard to find a decent stretch of field in Seoul, but its pretty sweet when you can.

A nice breeze picks up funky looking kites near the 63 building in Seoul.

Nic catches some Wednesday morning rays atop Bulamsan. I REALLY love starting work at 1pm!

2007-01-31T05:45:00.000-08:00

A ten minute inspirational for all the compulsive chopstick-drummers, finger-tappers, foot-stompers, noraebang-tambourineers and rhythm junkies out there. Keep the beat.

Best quote to come out of a grade 4 level test essay this evening:
"school uniforms should be necessary.... besides, parents have worker uniforms, school uniforms are just good practice for worker clothing." From a social satirist cleverly disguised as a pc-banging korean youth who doesnt SEEM to give hoot.

Also worthy of mention, a grade 3 student successfully employed the word plutoed (a 2006 word of the year finalist) within his persuasive essay. Nice.

2007-01-27T12:49:00.000-08:00

Saturday Night is Alright

Justin asks for help with a new stretch. Funky.

Zero captures an 89% accuracy score performing My Sharona, and in his rapture, falls from grace. He'll feel that in the morning.

Theres so much, and so little, going on here.

N/A Steve earns another 5,000 won, yet loses even more respect. So worth it!

As per my demonstrated gift, someone owes the table a new pitcher. Bottoms up!

Somewhere in the midst of my 6th semester of school back home, I had written a paper detailing the circadian rhythms inherent within the sleep-wake cycle of humans. If you're getting home close to the time you'd be waking up up ordinarly on a week day, chances are you won't be quite as tired as you'd expect. The body is simply gearing up for the new day ahead -not settling down, as it wanted you to do at a reasonable hour. Weekends have been filled with climbing, new friends, and celebrating the human condition. Tonight was really, and happily, not much of an exception. Hope you're all having fun in your own ways.

2007-01-25T19:09:00.000-08:00

Concerning George W Bush’s 7th State of the Union Address

While speculating the bright points to find in Bush’s then up-coming speech, a White House spokesman hopefully replied "You know, it's difficult to say. It's like looking in a drawer full of diamonds." Awesome.

I find one diamond particularly shiny:

"Free people are not drawn to violent and malignant ideologies."

Malignant:
1- disposed to cause harm, suffering, or distress deliberately; feeling or showing ill will or hatred.
2- very dangerous or harmful in influence or effect.

3 - tending to produce death, as bubonic plague.

3- (of a tumor) characterized by uncontrolled growth; cancerous, invasive, or metastatic. (dictionary.com unabridged v1.1)

Which of these do not wholly or in some major way define the foreign and even domestic policy of Mr. Bush?

There’s a whole lot of people out there with their very own idea of what’s best for their selves and family. I just wish this guy’s worldview wouldn’t actually be so impactful on, well, the whole world. From Seoul to the Athabasca tar sands, from Tehran to Washington, and everywhere between - the whole world feels the ripples of his splashes. Won’t someone please remove the mask over this man’s eyes?

Other sparkling gems include mention of his troop escalation, the “big push” in Iraq. "Our military commanders and I have carefully weighed the options. We discussed every possible approach. In the end, I chose this course of action because it provides the best chance of success." The troops could make it home by Christmas! Left unsaid was that he had fired those generals who disagreed.

This reminds me of the hopeful rhetoric slung throughout the second World War, by both sides. Memorably, of Hitler’s last major offensive in the Ardennes forest. (I knew those afternoons filled with Band of Brothers episodes would work themselves out somehow) The big push leading to the battle of the Somme and its subsequent slaughter also shares striking resemblance. Bigger guns now, I suppose.

For awesome leftist commentary check out www.alternet.org

2007-01-17T07:12:00.000-08:00

Be it ever so humble, there just 'aint no place like home.

Tipping Close, Airdrie, Alberta, Canada.

So what if this software has been out for more than a year, this is cooler than cool. It's going to be a late night.

2007-01-16T08:55:00.000-08:00

For better or for worse...

Last week - a fairly typical portrait of an evening after work. With a language to learn, students' work to mark, books and fruit to ingest, plants to care for - a world outside and within to explore and cultivate-was it truly essential that I purchase 77 new cable channels and a laptop computer to further distract my energy from simply being? Given my new equipment, the transformation has been abrupt. Nests of wire snakes lie jumbled through my room, yet connecting me electronically to the world - whilst books, marking, and my dietary needs remain unfulfilled. Could it be that time really does pass more swiftly while occupied on the computer? While I answer for myself if this new purchase will enable or disable me, expect more blog activity and emails. I'll get used to more Schwarzenegger, jogging pants, and ramyun noodles.

The bridge is out.....the bridge is out! -A.S.

2007-01-16T08:00:00.000-08:00

An evening of new and unfinished projects- by Justin, Jacob, N/A Steve and Myself

I'd like our weekend ritual of bouldering for about half an hour, and then resorting to attempting ridiculous feats of agility and acrobatics, to continue throughout this winter, until it warms enough to do these things outside. Here Justin gets friendly with a stalactite.

Still chalked and bandaged from barn-door swings gone horribly wrong while bouldering, Steve accepts his latest challenge with aplomb. Four down, eight to go - and easy on the coffee!

Not to be outdone, Jacob, in a rash act of self-destructiveness, toys with cheap chopsticks and the notion of imploding his esophagus with wasabi. If you're gonna spew, spew into this...

As for me, to purchase a laptop given my techno-illiteracy and a shared vocabulary of about 15 English words with a used-computer salesman in a subway station (most of which were simply different pronounciations of DVD? O-kay!!!!), my feat of tracking down Justin and co. in a city of about 12 million without a cellphone (its possible but not pretty), and bowling over 100 seemed to be as close to the sun as I'd risk flying for one day, given my waxen sandals and all.

2007-01-07T02:36:00.000-08:00

Well its back to work for me starting tomorrow afternoon, its been a pretty sweet winter holiday even though I did not leave Seoul for some warmer, more attractive or popular SE Asian destination.

In sum:

9 glorious days away from work
2 long nights out in Sinchon (1 very happy new years eve)
2 free bottles of rice wine
1 book finished
2 books started
5 climbing sessions (3 open blisters)
6 letters written and mailed
1 mountain scramble
2.3 korean language workbook lessons completed
1 less middle east despot
0 karaoke room visits
3 very well-done grilled cheese sandwiches
58 tiny little ants extinguished

2006-12-26T06:38:00.000-08:00

A Korean youngster contemplates the dearth of garbage receptacles in Seoul, and the culture of disposability he will soon inherit - and hangs his head.

2006-12-26T05:31:00.000-08:00

Christmas in Korea

Happy Holidays to everyone, everywhere!

Here's how you celebrate when you are far and away from family, turkey and a well-established VHS home library!

New friends, climbing at Kanhyon, dried fish, snowboard lessons under fireworks..... what better way to feel the Spirit of the Season?! In case you noticed the ski poles, Kim-Lee and I figured we might as well enjoy the snow at Oak Valley :) With a quick switch at the rental shop we were once again on the better side of the bell curve.

2006-12-26T05:24:00.000-08:00

"Yeah there was dancing, And singing, And moving to the grooving, And just when it hit me, Somebody turned around and shouted - Play that funky music white boy..... Play that funky music right! Play that funky music white boy ..... Lay down the boogie and play that funky music til you die." - The Hardest Working Man in Showbusiness

2006-12-18T05:36:00.000-08:00

Winter comes at last!

So it turns out that snow does fall in Seoul, though I had to be reminded not to eat it. I guess the roadway mayhem following the season's first fall goes beyond Canada, buses headed out of the city were shut down - so it was off to Olympic park instead. Good news: after 25 years Les finally learns stopping on skates without smashing into the boards! It actually came naturally since this rink had no chairs for me to skate with and rely on.

The city takes on a novel and entirely new element with 3 inches of snow hanging off its branches. It could almost be the Christmas around here!

"These things I remember, theres things I forget. I miss you - guess that I should. Three thousand five hundred miles away.... But what would you change if you could?"

2006-12-11T06:57:00.000-08:00

Gimbap - Korean picnic food of the Gods

(W)raptured in seaweed

chamchee remembers it well

the icy East sea

Encased together

with rice - that's bap if you'll please

happy compromise

so far from water

keeps its last promise, a gift

my appetite filled.

a les timmermans original haiku

2006-12-05T05:18:00.000-08:00

Seoul, the Han river, and the World Cup soccer stadium, from the top of the best-landscaped landfill site I'd ever visited. We'd headed out to track down the Korean Ultimate Frisbee crew last Sunday. It'd have been pretty cool to have played in the stadium, but it was all booked up that afternoon.

Justin, heavily influenced by korean photo-philia, makes the cut yet again! (When he gets like this, its best just to ignore him.)

After playing frisbee we headed for galbi and drinks in Sinchon, then we played more frisbee. I got schooled in "spinny disc." Looks like fun doesnt it? World record holder kept a disc spinning on a soapy table for something like 53 seconds. Thats HUGE.

I've yet to achieve this sort of infamy on the Seoul Metro system. My inability to set this picture the right way, I believe, only adds to its incredulousness. Another good night out in the big smoke - for me, but not so much for this tuckered-out-hardcore-hiker agishee. Koreans accomplish things 100 percent, looks like there's no wussing out of anything. How's he going to explain this one to the family?!

2006-12-05T05:05:00.000-08:00

This is your brain on Soju....

Actually its pa-jeon, or green onion pancake, which we created last week at my place. Anything dipped in enough soya sauce could not possibly be harmful. Its a blast attempting to cook for yourself the foods you love most, although in Korea for the price of ingredients you might as well go out to the streets and pick up your own pa-jeon for about 2 dollars. Home-style mandu really didn't turn out too well. I wonder what pa-banana-jeon might taste like.....

2006-11-27T09:03:00.000-08:00

And so it goes, in the midst of spelling bees hosted at my school. A rather fitting example through which to describe the educational experience here in Korea. Kids here become subject at a young age to the competitive rigours demanded of them by schools, family life - 21st century affluent-asian society in general. These kids spend an unreal amount of time at desks and behind texts, memorizing grammar and the correct spelling of "aggressive" and "mischief."

South Korea's "economic miracle" is without doubt a product of a workforce willing to spend 13 productive hours a day on the clock. These kids in school are just getting ready to become a part of the machine. GNP as a measure of progress just looks so hot on a country this season!

2006-11-27T08:39:00.000-08:00

Some pretty nifty-looking climbing to be done in Seoraksan, though Sara and I stuck to hiking between caves and syrup-on-a-stick wielding ajummas. After a few hours the rain made things a bit miserable and so it was back on the bus to Seoul. Perhaps the funniest episode occured the evening before, when a fairly sauced Korean man left us with his puppy in the pub. Soon he returned with a freshly-pulled cabbage, petting it and holding it up for others to see as if he were already over the disappearance of his pet. Obviously he had discovered a tastier substitute, one less apt to pee all over the bar anyways. Though I still havent tried boshintang so I should not compare deliciousness.

2006-11-27T07:46:00.000-08:00

East Coast Road Trip - Sokcho and Seoraksan National Park

Sokcho - a city of 90,000 sandwiched between the Sea of Japan and the granite peaks of Seoraksan park. Its not disney land you see but a fairyland castle motel, perfect for bottom-budget honeymooners and English teachers looking to spend a night for less than 20 bucks. A pretty cheap weekend trip to get out of the big smoke and into some real mountains. South Korea is really not a very large country, but on account of congested freeways a 150km trip to the opposite coast still may last a 5 hour bus ride. Turns out other people want to use the roads as well! At least here there's no -36C w/ windchill and ice-glazed highway 2's to contend with.... drive safe you Calgarians!

2006-11-27T07:25:00.000-08:00

Some extra pictures from Bukhan-san and Suwon, courtesy of Trevor and Rachel

2006-11-19T06:09:00.000-08:00

Weekend Snap-shots

A beautiful afternoon winds down in Suwon

Archery along the city's walls was a humbling but exciting discovery, next time those target boards had better watch out....

Justin Ginn - Renaissance Man

Evenings out on the town take me back to the geography field school in Hinton, Alberta, where I first met Justin. Justin arrived in a neighbourhood fairly close to mine about 3 weeks before I left Calgary. After a particularily disastrous Wednesday night affair with Soju about a month ago, we typically keep our mid-week meetings under control. Weekends are still open season. This Saturday night's festivities included subway gymnastics, broken bottles, ripped pants, soju and koolaid, late night korean pancake, and and an expensive (and sleepy) cab ride home. I still havent figured how to direct the cab to my exact building, however unimpaired I can usually land within the general vicinity. Last night was a different story. Along the early-morning wander however I did manage to find a desk which I thought would fit nicely within my own apartment's motif. (that is to say, random, otherwise unwanted furniture found streetside) It was a bit heavy and could not offer any help with directions, but was (and remains) a faithful listener to my slurred rantings.

Shoes off inside

2006-11-19T04:52:00.000-08:00

Escape from Seoul - Saturday in Suwon

Headed to Suwon this past saturday morning to explore along the city's unique defensive wall. Suwon is a small city (only a million people) south of Seoul, but still lies within the metropolitan area and is connected within the transit system. In fact, getting there took about 1.5 hours of standing-room-only crowded subway cars, but cost only about 2 dollars with 1 transfer between my neighbourhood and Suwon. The wall was pretty impressive and it felt great to have gotten out of the capital to explore a bit more of what this country has to offer.

The wall was built only 200 years ago but walking along it make crossbow exchanges and cannon-fire battles colourfully imaginable.

One of the day's highlights would most definitely include catching the last few minutes of a drum-dance preformance outside of the city's restored palace. The heavy layers of make-up these boys were wearing didnt seem to weigh them down all too much - some of the jumps and spins they were pulling off were stunning. Its so reassuring and delightful to witness proof of a real and sustained Korean culture, other than the heavily westernized city life I've seen so far. Discoveries like this validate my mission to see as much of South Korea as possible while I'm here - because its not all just rush-rush cities full of honking Hyundaes and Outback steakhouses.

King Jeongjo seems like a pretty nice guy, despite what the others say about him.

2006-11-14T05:49:00.000-08:00

Bukhansan National Park

This past Saturday morning found Mike, Trevor, Rachel and I in a taxi outside the Suyu subway station, trying to pronounce "to the mountain over there" by pointing our fingers. If the cab had dropped us anywhere close to the trailhead we would have missed the dozens of outdoor gear shops and charming restaurants lining the road, so we were lucky, really. Suyu lies along the edges of Seoul's inner city mountain park, and melts from high rise apartments and businesses to much much more quaint dwellings, shops and kiosks. The smell of woodsmoke on a crisp bluebird morning takes me back to Alberta alpine mornings in a heartbeat.

We spent the afternoon scrambling towards Insadong, the park's most prominent peak. What looks like a small nub from my apartment in Nowon becomes a hugely impressive bulb of granite, hosting over a hundred climbing routes mostly multi-pitch. This could be considered Seoul's very own El Capitan! Once you get close to the rock you can see how much climbing would actually be required to reach the top. I hope to soon make ammends with slab scaling, as it appears that most of the climbs in Korea are of the smoothest variety :)

Mike, too wild to be harnessed, makes a desperate attempt for the summit. Luckily we managed to lure him down with granola bars and peppero sticks.

2006-11-14T04:46:00.000-08:00

Korean Cuisine: The low down as it goes down....

After spending a little over a month now in South Korea I feel I've sampled enough of the culinary treats to give you a bit of an idea on what to expect should you quit your job and move to this friendlier end of the peninsula. The food here is excellent, healthy for the most part and full of meat. Though for lunch today I had bibimbap, shown above, and it's protein comes from a fried egg, instead of meat, which is tossed into the melange of rice, carrots, sprouts, and these funny brown things which I think may be from the mushroom family. I'm not sure.

Anyways from what I've read its a bit faux pas to rest a spoon or chop sticks in your rice, but I've kept it there for the sake of scale. Lunch lady really piled it on today.

The food usually arrives in metal bowls. This apparently is a hold back from the Joseon dynasty when the kings, ever fearful of ambitious underlings, favoured silver bowls and chopsticks as they tarnish in the presence of toxins. It's good to know when someone is trying to kill you, especially at foreign restaurants or at the school you work in.

Besides eating at school for free, most of my meals have been at restaurants around the neighbourhood. There is just no way I could figure out some of these recipes on my own! Sitting around on the floor sharing food you've never imagined with new friends has been a great way to unwind after teaching. Below is dwaejigalbi, essentially plate fulls of rolled bacon that you spread out and fry yourself, wrap into a lettuce leaf and eat. Ok so maybe I've imagined that much bacon before, but only in my wildest dreams.

Restaurants serving Galbi offer meats that you cook yourself on the table you sit at. This makes possible food poisoning due to undercooking your own perogative! Along with the sizzling meat are anywhere from 6 to 16 different side dishes. These could be dried salted minnows, onions, garlic, pickled radish, tofu, acorn jelly, or diced cabbage salad, and you always know kimchee will be in there somewhere. Kimchee is the dark orange stuff in the bowl bottom left. Koreans love the stuff, even kids. North Americans could really learn something from a culture who has managed to convince children to pick fermented cabbage as their favorite food, over more seductive treats like pizza or KFC chicken. I'm still working on enjoying the stuff myself, its really not all that bad. I still love pizza though.

I've had mandu on several occasions, these are either fried or steamed dumplings - both very good. Mandu you can find served from street vendors, thankfully, as well as skewered chicken (dakkochi - AKA pigeon-on-a-stick) and sausage (on-a-stick). You could spend 5 dollars US a day and live like a king on street meat here. Yes, a very happy king headed for imminent cardiovascular/gastrointestinal meltdown.

2006-11-14T04:35:00.000-08:00

Farewell to the west now. My mind is open to the east

To all the new faces, new minds, and things to see

But I am alone here

And my heart at times it weeps, I will see you through the colours

As the sun sinks in the sand.

-Xavier Rudd

2006-11-05T05:16:00.000-08:00

Bulam-san in Autumn

Trevor, Rachel and I went searching for sport climbing Sunday, on the mountain across from our apartment. The hail storm sometime the night before scrubbed the dust and smoke from the skies, leaving us a bluebird fall afternoon. Not a whole lot of climbing but a few fun rappels and some serious downstepping on slab.

Still the skinny kid with army pants you knew a month ago.

Bulam-san seems to have a lot of smooth sloping granite, known as slab in climbing circles. While few people I know seem to have grown really comfortable walking or climbing slab, I'll just put this out there straight..... It scares the shit out of me. While moderate inclines may provide enough friction to keep your feet from sliding, an unprotected fall here would leave only square centimetres of your skin still attached (at least you'd get off the slab fast....). Walking upright on a 45 degree angle provides the greatest downforce on your feet, while the tendancy to want to hug the rock will start you sliding, with all of Seoul below, watching. The worst part of all of this are the 45 year old Korean men walking by with hiking boots, wool socks pulled up to their knees and an ice axe, asking if you are OK. If I can't beat them, I'd better join them. Or at least make a last-ditch frantic grab for their helping hand.

Fall has arrived in Seoul, bringing cooler nights, occasional lightning storms and brilliantly coloured leaves. The earthy smell of grounded leaves on Bulam-san is a powerful reminder of the 2-day autumn back home, before wind or snow whips the golden cotton-wood leaves from their branches. Two days of glory.

2006-11-05T04:33:00.000-08:00

Yongsan, Namdaemun and Hyehwa

After a long Friday night of fried chicken, tall cans of smuggled Cass Maekju and noraebang (3rd time, you should hear me wail Cyndi Lauper with a cold and tambourine), Saturday afternoon found Justin and myself scouting new neighbourhoods, new marketplaces, and expensive student nightspots (expensive means 5 dollar drinks). Yongsan hosts an ultramodern department store jammed to the ceiling with cell phones, computer parts, cameras and anything else you can find with more that 2GBs of memory.

After sorting out Justin's new mobile we headed for Namdaemun, which is a more traditional neighbourhood with alleyways lined with street vendors selling small dead pigs alongside knock-off Louis Vuitton (the correct spelling required research) handbags, munch-able silkworm larvae in front of Korean soccer jerseys. Quite a mishmash! Namdaemun also is the site of one of Seoul's ancient gates, a part of the fortified wall that once encircled the city. Its now in the middle of a traffic circle. God bless progress!

I've been to Hyehwa twice now, its a rather busy area full of restaraunts, bars, pubs and shopping. Lots of lights and people, but lots of fun as well.

BBQ Pork (Korean Style!) in Hyehwa - cook it yourself, cut it with scissors, roll it up in lettuce and mint leaves and enjoy. Check out all the side dishes! Thats fermented cabbage front/right - Watch for the Korean Cuisine blog installment... coming soon

2006-10-29T06:36:00.000-08:00

Todd Skinner - A tribute and reminder

A 47-year-old former rodeo cowboy and world-renowned rock climber, fell more than 500 feet to his death last Monday after the nylon loop used to attach the climbing rope to his harness broke. The accident has sent shock waves through the climbing community, where Skinner's outgoing nature was almost as legendary as his courage and skill on some of the world's most dangerous rock faces. He is credited with more than 300 first ascents in 26 countries.
Live and love life. Climb safe.

"The magic of climbing is to be at the edge of all you have ever known, at the failing point of strength, vision, and courage, and yet still be drawn another step toward the summit. A long stretch of granite on a nameless tower in a remote range might be the test that asks more of you than you thought you had to give - drawing you further from what you were and closer to what you can become. Each mountain makes us better climbers for the mountains in our future." -TS

2006-10-29T06:14:00.000-08:00

Out and about in Nowon-gu

This is the lane-way outside of my apartment building. A nice reminder of green (soon to be stunning autumn reds) amidst the concrete jungle. Nowon-gu is the municipal district of Seoul to which my school and apartment belong.

2006-10-29T04:28:00.000-08:00

Good people and Good times

Another Halloween for the books! By the time we had visited Anna's costume party in Itaewon, checked out a pub, nightclub, and finally Noraebang-Karaoke, it was 6am. Of course that includes the 45 minute cab ride I slept through completely. A packed full night involving a hung horse, a backwards cowgirl, bleeding pellet gun chest wounds, overly-anxious witches, Soju mixed with koolaid and a beautifully rendered piano man.

Mike and Kristina, both colleague teachers of mine at Poly, sporting Jolla-person (stickpeople) costumes. We estimate, based on the jealous stares we attracted on the subway, that every korean in Seoul will be wearing these outfits by Friday! Kris has recently acted in her first movie appearance, a documentary event similar to Fubar, sure to make waves at international film festivals once it's released. Watch for her at the Oscars!

A fairly accurate depiction of Anna's place, as I recall.

These drinks pack a punch, literally, as well as between the temples the morning after!

Eight dollar pizza the next day with Trevor and Rachel has never tasted so good! What is it about greasy food that eases the soul so nicely after a big night out?! These two have been wonderful, helpful guides to the culinary delights of Korea (far beyond pizza...honest), and Trevor is the best climbing partner one could ask for out here.

2006-10-22T08:30:00.000-07:00

School Staff field trip - Nami Island

After my first week of real work since... well I can't remember, its been quite a while - we took a drive out of the city to Nami Island, as the sign says a "gracefully leaf-shaped island floating in the middle of the Han River". It was about 5 times the size of Princes island park, with awful music blaring from speakers nailed to the trees for which this fallen leaf is known for. Its hard to appreciate the nature of this place when its planted in straight rows, surrounded by turbid waters (which will some day soon find its way downstream into Seoul's water system, something a few people I asked decided was just not possible) and crawling with couples with tripods and matching outfits. Nice to get out of the city though. People in Seoul seem to have the impression that if everyone's not doing it, it's probably not worth doing. Well at least I've got my next door mountain and climbing wall! The changing leaves on the row-planted trees did make for some interesting shots. Any experience can at very least be a valuable perspective-building occasion, and thats precisely what this field trip amounted to for me.

2006-10-22T08:13:00.000-07:00

The Korean climbing scene

This morning I walked about 20 minutes to the climbing wall, part of an impressive outdoor sports center including raquetsports, basketball and kids stuff. Trevor and I have vowed to climb a few times a week to negate the effects of the incredible amounts of fried chicken we ingest around town. Today was the climbing "festival" the first competition I have witnessed. Its unfortunate this event coincided with the first rainy weather I've seen since coming into country. The best part of the event was this kid - no more than 7 years old - besting many of the adults straining under the mens route. Check this kiddo out!

Only with regret I can say that I was successful in declining the invitation of the organizers to partake in the comp. Tomorrow we'll check out the route on our own, and decide if it would have been too advanced for me, or see if I could have been the white climbing prodigy - the hottest thing to hit Seoul since live octopus. As it was I was the only spectator without black hair and taller than 5'9'', I decided that I was getting enough attention as it was without putting on some kind of climbing display.

2006-10-22T07:51:00.000-07:00

Home for the next 50 weeks....and counting!

Alright-obviously I'm afflicted with bathroom fixation syndrome. A pretty straightforward western style washroom. The interesting thing is that Korean's don't seem to believe in shower curtains. Most of the room ends up sprayed after a shower, however it makes bathroom cleaning pretty quick. Just dump bleach all over the place and giv'er with the shower head - everything drains back towards the tub. Just dont forget to take the toilet paper out of the room before you go ape shit with the rinse.

So how else do you fit 13 million people in a single city without stacking them on top of eachother in cookie cutter apartment buildings? They cover the city and its not as difficult as you might think to forget which one is yours. My flat is on the 7th floor, and while it took quite a bit of floor scrubbing (Jason, the previous teacher-resident, seemed to have a penchant for nail polish and stiletto high heels - accounting for the puncture wounds in the linoleum. An extreme symptom of Korean culture shock?) I've gotten to the delightful point where things feel like home.

2006-10-22T07:33:00.000-07:00

NoraeBang!

I think we all know how much Asians love their Karaoke, which to say is nearly as much as the ubiquitous sticky rice and kimchee served with every single meal. But here, they've got it all figured out. They've realized that only the most exceptionally talented but mentally delayed patrons (heres to you, Lisa and Julie) would be willing to get up in front of an audience of strangers and sing your heart out to Summer of 69. So here you stop at 7-11, buy as much 3 dollar beer as you can hide in your backpack, and get your friends and yourself into a private room complete with booth seating, microphones and most fittingly, tambourines for Karaoke back up. Another great Sunday night out in Itaewon, Seoul. One's a ranking officer in the American marines kicking curfew, the other - a lowly English teacher who'll be wishing not to have responsibilities the next morning. Who's who?!

2006-10-22T07:09:00.000-07:00

The Namba Capsule Inn

The following shots I took on my 2nd and final night in Osaka. After walking all day around temples and castles I was eager for rest and to figure out how to stretch the last few 10 thousand yen in my pocket. (Which really doesnt count for much more than about 50 USD, pitifully little considering the cost of my second night's accomodation was not covered by the school I'm at, and given Japan is one of the most expensive countries on the planet) And so I arrived at the Namba Capsule hotel. Costing well within my budget, remarkably, as well as clean and friendly, this was amongst my greatest discoveries in Japan. The Japanese bathhouse on the 8th floor I could not photograph due to the rampant nudity, signage however made it clear that only men were allowed to enjoy the sit down showers, hot and cool tubs, and the sauna. Not for the timid North American traveller - I however am well accustomed to male nudity and managed to quite enjoy myself. The robe they supplied you with to strut around in may have been the best part.

Besides the (heat) lamp, radio and television set, the capsules remided my quite a bit of the refridgerator box forts of my childhood. Nothing kiddie about these suites, its all business here. You can even pay by the hour! For mid-day napping I assume. With a complementary egg and toast breakfast, the 8th floor baths, and a decent night's sleep, an excellent, excellent value. Just make sure to get into the top row of pillboxes, otherwise you'll be woken all night by drunk businessmen stepping over you.

2006-10-22T06:52:00.000-07:00

After spending the first evening in Osaka wandering neon alleyways testing streetside noodle vendors, I decided for a more historically enriching experience on my second day. First I headed to Osaka castle, built as a fortress ringed by two moats in the center of the city. - Dio Buono, why is this fellow next to me in the PC cafe yelling so loudly at his computer game? So the hell what if his level 13 elf mage just got her magic sword stolen by a druid dwarf. - Sorry, anyways following is the view from the top of the castle tower, which inside was a museum mostly filled with screaming kindergarten Japanese students.

Shitenoji Temple, nice but I did not feel worthwhile to spend another 5 bucks to get any closer to.

2006-10-22T06:14:00.000-07:00

After one week in Korea I flew to Osaka Japan where I was to acquire a working visa. This was the first of many, many very pleasant suprises I experienced during my 3 day visit. A rather philosophic camper had once asked me which was worse, a cold toilet seat or an especially warm one. I can now affirmatively answer - the latter. Yes, you can even adjust the temperature of the water jetting up your bottom.
Osaka was far more impressive than I could have imagined. Its people clean their city meticulously. And though it means being on top of your game to avoid all sorts of people speeding down sidewalks on their bikes, less air pollution means blue skies. Very nice! A far cry from Seoul where it is not uncommon to have to dodge the ball of phelgm on the side walk spat by the 64 year old woman walking directly infront of you. The masses of plegm could have something to do with the amount of cigarettes these people smoke. I really don't mean to dissuade anyone from spending time in Korea, or from thinking well of it. It has its particular charm which I'll mention sometime later.
A more typical Asian public toilet. Eat your heart out Mr. Baseball. Just dont face the wrong way, or get your pants dirty. Good luck! I liked my Hotel Riva toilet seat much better, but desperate times call(ed) for desperate measures.

2006-10-07T20:11:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Seoul, Republic of Korea on Friday evening, after a delightful flight via executive class Air Canada. Many, many thanks to anyone that was involved in the under-table dealings that made that possible. Airplane food never tasted so great.

I'm staying at another teacher's apartment, who happens to be in Canada visiting home for the next week. Shortly I'll be getting my own place once the teacher I'm filling in for moves out. Accomodations are fairly western, imagine eveything you'd find in a typical apartment, crammed into half the space. Although, I will have a larger bed here than I've ever had back home. I'm not complaining about much at this point.

I start at the school tomorrow, Monday morning. Its located about one block from where I live which is very convienient. Also convienient are the mountains about 2 blocks from where I live. I'll share pictures of my hiking trip as soon as I find a computer with English on it. Makes Nose Hill look pretty lame-o!

So I've still got to get used to the Korean script on the computer and I can't quite manage to get some of my own pictures posted for you to laugh at, so I thought maybe some of you would enjoy this one I found.

2006-09-29T13:39:00.000-07:00

After enduring unemployment (its really been rough) since mid August, I'm more than ready to push off to Seoul, South Korea next week. Its a city of roughly 12 million people, in likely 3 quarters of the area within Calgary's city limits. With rock nearby and plenty of maek-jju and boshingtang to keep my tail wagging, I'm looking forward to a feast of experience. After all, how much different can it be from crashing at Mom's place in Airdrie Alberta?

2006-09-29T12:48:00.000-07:00

....And I don't want it, the things you're offering me, symbolized bar code, quick i.d., oh yeah....

2006-09-17T16:46:00.000-07:00

Northern Tier, Atikokan, Ontario

A fairly typical campsite along the water's edge in NW Ontario, where I have led wilderness canoe expeditions for parts of 2 summers. My lonely tent was absolutely rocked by a thunderstorm late that night. Who would have thought?

Showing the American scouts how its done up here in Canada. They promptly taught me a few tricks of their own.

Did someone check to see how deep this water is?

Part of the network of water joined by a pathways of mud, rock and biting insects, known to some as portage trails. Say it like the French do, otherwise it comes out sounding very much like "porridge". These were the highways upon which we travelled.

On many evenings the calm waters would become perfect mirrors of the dazzling skies above.

Gleams that world untravell'd
Whose margin fades
Forever and forever when I move.
(from Alfred Lord Tennyson's Ullyses)

2006-09-16T15:09:00.000-07:00

Kootenay River, British Columbia

There must be something of significant interest to the right, out of frame. Perhaps an eagle, maybe sheer fluvial cut banks extending 50 metres over the waters edge. Probably nothing. I can't remember. Anyways this is me, at 25, scouting the river for the trips anticipated in the weeks ahead.